Newfoundland: One Hospitable Place

Tweet

Newfoundland, Canada

by Carolyn Pogue

Newfoundland villages are a photographer's delight.

Warning

Be warned. When you visit Newfoundland, you could be ambushed by fun-loving, musical Islanders. On our first night at Parsons' Ocean View Cabins in Rocky Harbour, a neighbour called out, "Would you like a beer, Skipper?" As the moon rose and the tide turned nearby, our front deck came alive with folk tunes, hilarious stories, even step dancing.

West Coast

We'd flown into St. John's, rented a car and overnighted in The City Hostel on Gower Street. The next morning we drove the TransCanada 700 km to Gros Morne National Park. We reached Rocky Harbour by dinnertime.

Sunset at Gros Morne National Park

Fortunately, we didn't meet any of the resident 130,000 moose on the road, as others have, especially at dusk. Artists find interesting ways to use the antlers, however. I bought antler buttons; I could have bought an antler hat rack, cribbage board or pen.

In Bonne Bay we took a boat tour along the fjords to the St. Lawrence River, photographing seal, bald eagles, mackerel traps and coast-hugging villages. Our guides entertained with geological, natural and human history (Captain Cook sailed these waters), and lots of humour.

We sailed close to The Shag Cliff, rising 120 metres; every metre representing 40,000 years of Earth history. Fossil hunters would have a grand time, however this is a national park and they'd have to dangle from a rope to take a look.

At tour's end, our guides performed I'se the B'ye, likely the most famous Newfoundland folk song. Evening tours include theatre, music, and Newfoundland screech, an alcoholic drink that will have you step dancing in no time.

Woody Point "Wild Life" from the Bonne Bay boat tour

The Taj Mahal and Egyptian pyramids are UNESCO sites; Gros Morane National Park is too, designated because of it's great natural beauty and remarkable geology. We took a guided botanic and geologic hike on the Tablelands – more fun than remembered school lessons. On the Tablelands, we learned we were walking on a piece of Africa that remained when the continents drifted apart. The 4 km walk is a paradise for photographers. The trail leads through an Old Growth Forest where 200 year old tree trunks measure 30 cm!

Walking through the Old Growth forest in Gros Morane. Honest.

Gros Morne Mountain

Heading east, we stopped at Grand Falls-Windsor to see the Mary March Museum. Her Beothuk name was Desmasduit. She was one of the last of her people and died in 1829. Admiring a recreated Beothuk birchbark canoe, we were startled to discover that Lloyd Seward, the 93-year-old builder, was standing right beside us.

Lloyd Seward (L) recreated the Beothuk birchbark canoe. He explains to an admirer from Alberta that he paddled many rivers before donating it to the Mary March Museum.

We next travelled to 300 year-old Trinity, an historic and artistic village on Bonavista Peninsula, where we enjoyed the play Salt Water Moon at Rising Tide Theatre. In nearby New Bonavista we visited the movie set for Random Passage, based on Bernice Morgan's novel about 1830s Newfoundland. Fabulous.

St. John's: The Oldest City in North America

In St. John's we stayed at the upscale Murray Premises Hotel on Harbour Drive and also at the City Hostel on Gower Street. Both fine places. The Duke of Duckworth Street Pub has excellent fish and chips. Sprouts has great vegetarian fare.

Typical homes in downtown St. John's. Watch "The Republic of Doyle" for more street scenes like this one!

The capital is full of history, art, good restaurants and a self awareness that makes it a place you'll want to return to. Walking the streets or the Signal Hill trails is a beautiful way to spend a day. You can't be bored. Shops, restaurants, the busy harbour and historical sites feed the soul. Signal Hill has been a travel destination for all sorts of people: scientists, tourists, military, governments, inventors (In 1901 Marconi received the first transatlantic radio signal), and anyone wanting to see the sun rise in the east. The real east.

Signal Hill museum houses artifacts and visitors can climb the tower for a spectacular view. Nearby is the excellent Johnson Geo Centre and Park, "Earth's Geological Showcase." We also saw a travelling exhibit on the Titanic.

A visit to "The Rooms" is worthwhile to see the art gallery, museum and archives. Some evenings are free to the public. We also learned why "Haunted Hikes" are so popular. An actor walks you around town telling stories of hauntings and happenings. It's a glorious steal at $10.

In the foreground, "The Rooms" - archives, art gallery and museum in St. John's, in the background, the Roman Catholic Cathedral.

East Coast

We next explored the Avalon Peninsula, driving south to Witless Bay and through lovely small villages nestled into stunningly beautiful coves. In Ferryland we visited Lord Baltimore's Colony of Avalon, a working archeological site dating from 1621. Archeologists are literally working around the homes of longtime residents. I loved the reconstructed kitchen, where a costumed guide bakes bread on an open fire. There is a lot to see around the site, including unique gold coins and rings, unearthed this year.

After driving through Barren Lands, we overnighted in Claddagh, a converted convent, then stopped at Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve. It was awe-inspiring to see colonies of gannets sitting atop gigantic cliffs and wheeling in the wind, a veritable blizzard of birds. Gannets mate for life, and hoping to have a long one, nest in inaccessibly high, rugged terrain.

A blizzard of birds at Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve. These gannets will fly to Florida for the winter.

Heading north, we periodically stopped to walk isolated beaches. At Placentia we visited Castle Hill, where battles between France and England were carried out long distance, so to speak, and for dominion over the cod fishery which at times has created wealth, poverty, heart break and joy, and brought peoples here from mainland Canada, Portugal and the Basque country. We then circled back to St. John's.

Farewell

Newfoundland is a hospitable place, and people know who they are. Their shops promote all things local; I wish every province and territory did as well. The work of local authors, crafters, artists, knitters, quilters and musicians is front and centre. It's refreshing. Inspiring, even.

Believe the advertisements from the Provincial Tourism Department. This is a magical, mystical, hospitable place.

Most cities have war memorials and statues to the big and the bold, but St. John's also has a statue in honour of children. You will see her on Military Road, counting on her fingers, enjoying a peaceful little park where, the plaque says, children have played for many generations.

More info online:

• Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism
• The Colony of Avalon
• BonTours Boat Tours
• The St. John's Haunted Hikes

Other resources:

• Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve: 1-800-563-6353

Carolyn Pogue is a writer, editor and workshop leader. Her passion is building a better world of peace and justice for all. She believes that the pen is mightier than the sword. Story telling, humour and artistic flair go into the mix of her workshops and writing.

Her website is www.carolynpogue.ca.

Santepheap

The Cambodian Children's House of Peace in Siem Reap, Cambodia, serves poor children with food, clothing, shelter and education! Find out more